How to make cement batteries

All you need is cement and the radiator seal, a sodium silicate. This has alumina and aluminum bits, and I combined two different kinds: aluminum and copper. It’s so throwing them all on both and you need a tube to put it in and some wire somewhere first you need to measure out some more then that be an exact science. draw it somewhere so the tubes will display it stick up the bottom and products and execute measure not very precise do it two strands and can be Copper wire being me copper tubing. Let me strip it need to make contact with the smacking inside not important things get the strake you know how to touch an inside straight by twisting and pulling my lawyer.

Okay now I got this wire in here it's recording yep got this boy you're in here and you want to secure its cu you’re going to pull on to keep it straight while you're pouring us, Matt, now mixes. Matt, it's for the sodium silicate or radiator seal or whatever form of sodium silicate you want to use when you mix the cement you want to so damn silicate mixture you want to keep it sitting in a sea of oatmeal so you don't need to add any extra water because the sodium silicate is usually hydrated just water and let's get dry pond much all you need to use is just us feel free to experiment with whatever you want don't get it to it because then it'll out the bottom on this hole and sides wind up touching there and all that get to it just add more stock I'm using old so the more you mix this mountain mind you there's.

There are also a copper little copper bits in there to the loom you can't see it I can see the loom that isn't cement does help with the yeah helps with the Casimir effect I’m looking for after the chemical at giving us Matt after three weeks will stop you know after three weeks chemical activity stop the aluminum outside will stop corroding copper I'll stop coating and that's when the real effects happen. if you make that three-week mark most people seem to get stuck there and their

batteries stop working then and that's the end of that but mine they've been working my oldest one has been working since August and it's almost February you know their actual until July so now you want to take the cement out here and pack it in there it's just the right consistency like won't be told me. Oh, that's the way you want it must be packing it down in there I haven't tried with any other cathode and anode materials except the copper and that's all I got that's all I use anode touching the cathode or anything like that can be disasters in there. The battery won't work too great and will still work this'll probably be this design right here Oh give me one point seven volts.

now under load, it drops down the like Oh probably about 700 some of our millivolts are about two or three milliamps when it's not under load and you're just measuring it's usually four or five four five new amps at one point seven volts sometimes I had one Selling out the 2 points 2 point 7 volts by itself that was not like the other ones my pack this down there well off the top because you might want to treat it you don't need to treat it this formulation. I pass ones I used water Then commentary it with sodium silicates this seems us heal it just find you still can do it treat it you may want to me not you got to get a nice little Pinter for when you pour sodium silicate here to treat it if you want to if some seem to have a charging effect on it if you leave in the dark you'll only get maybe four or five hundred milliamps to leave it and Sun and it seems to stay right around one point one to one point seven bolts okay that looks good all right dude just take its ticket this thumb.

I'll stick it in these rocks right here and let it dry off then I'm the water starts beating out the top and that's when I'll add the sodium silicate to treat it and that's that